TyeeTanic

Exactly. That is the whole point. When I got into my 28 footer, I panicked way too much. Now if the wind takes me, I don't touch the dial. If I have to nudge something, no damage is done. It's when you gun it and over compensate that the real damage happens. I went from a 19 to a 28 footer. By the end of month 1, I was confident, but like others said, never get overly confident. Being intimidated is a good thing, keeps you on high alert and prepared. The best thing is to captain the boat and make sure everyone follows YOUR instructions. You don't need 2 people giving instructions. Before I head out I always go over the docking procedure for when we get back, BEFORE not after. I can show guys on the dock in my own time, no pressure, what I need them to do. I even go over what we need to do if something goes wrong. When we get back, everything works like clock work. Even when a gust blows me away from the dock, everyone stays in check and we get it sorted out. In terms of speed, jog the drive into gear and back to neutral in 1 second spurts (1 second on, 2 seconds in neutral). This gets you moving really slowly, to the point that with a single you can pretty much pivot on point. You can practice that in open water and you will get really good at it. Another trick is to go to neutral about 2 or 3 slips BEFORE you reach your slip. This means you will be virtually stopped by the time you get to your slip and any movement of the drive in conjuction with a steer to starboard or port, will pivot the boat on point. Just go slow and don't panick, all will be fine. Never let a boat size intimidate you from a purchase, you can learn to drive, but you can't undo buying a smaller boat (and wishing you had gone bigger), at least not without losing a lot of money.

We run our coppers off TX44 inline planer boards, and yes the release goes on the braid backing not the wire, or it will kink and break.

You can easily fit 100 ft of braid and 1000 ft of wire on a CV30D. We do this. It helps a little. But do what Sk8man says by letting out the line. We normally clip on an open dipsey and reel it back in. That will make a big difference when you catch a big fish.

Wrapping them around a pool noodle is probable the best. I basically wrap it around my hand and then squeeze the wrapped line together and push it through a straw.

Fleas are also bad on north shore, but doesn't sound like as bad as you guys have it. Our wirelines had 2 ft sections of fleas just ahead of the dipsey. Didn't get any on the 30 lb mono.

Nice story. I have found low 20 to mid 20 fish are the best fighters out there. The one +30lber we did get was a fighter yes, but more like just brut force pulling, rather than fast runs.

Use this knot: http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm However, do step 3, 4 then 1 and 2. It's easier to tie the overhand knot first before the swivel gets in the way.

I've always used 7 strand and never had a break off on the wire since I spooled 4 years ago. I would say it's pretty tough. The 19 strand is good to, my fishing partner only uses that version (we are both stubborn). I wouldn't be overly concerned about 7 strand. Sure the 19 is more flexible, but 7 strand is also flexible enough, and the strands are thicker wire, so they don't break as easy. 19 strand wire can get the individual strands breaking easier. Probably the best feature of the 19 strand is that it doesn't have as much memory as the 7 strand, so it doesn't curl as quickly. I find with both the 7 and 19 strand it's a matter of how you treat the wire. Keep it tight, avoid pig tails, cut off when you start seeing curling. Curling will happen on both (sooner on the 7 strand) in the first 5 ft of the line, primarily due to spinning of the SD (even with spro BB swivels), especially when fleas accumulate on knots. When you see this, just cut it off and reterminate. Takes 5 minutes, not even.