steelhead strong

When to put your boat in the water?

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Cool test. What's a better go to than the pink stuff is there a better option?

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i have a 470 in my boat the moe always has antifreeze in it . i run the pink stuff threw the heat exchanger then drain it . i figured if any thing left it wouldn't freeze . after seeing paps jars and reading he had a cracked motor never again . i will run 50/50 green stuff threw the heat exchanger . thanks for the imfor pap sure was the hard way to find out the pink stuff is junk 

 

Edited by fisherdude

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It is important to note RV's have plastic plumbing that can stand some freezing unlike metal components.  Copper tubing swells when freezing but retains the new larger diameter that does not take regular fittings.

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There is a product out called cryotek used by HVAC guys for boilers and chillers it is propelene glycol(safe to drink) unlike the free ethylene glycol it is more expensive than ever antifreeze and is red not pink they have charts on the buckets to give you slush and burst points on different concentrations most plumbing and heating supply houses will carry it


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Yea, guys I didn't really know what to do about this, should I say something, should I just keep it to myself, not to be a prick, but I took some heat on subjects such as. I know people have used this theory for years, and I get if you still continue going this rout. I have a 18ft run about that I take the kids tubing or skiing, it has a 3.0 in it 2 drain plugs and your done, honestly guys I thought this was a bullet proof way to rid the cooling system of water at those hard to get at areas. I used to just drain the whole system and blow all the water out. It's been since I joined this site and most guys were using this methood. I'm going back to the old school ways.

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The 470 heat exchanger has 2 drain plugs on the bottom 1 is for fresh water and 1 for the closed system. To winterize that block all you do is pull the fresh water plug, if it drains green you have the wrong one. If you have a P/S heat exchanger pull the plug on the bottom of that and your done. With a fresh water cooled block all you do is pull the drain plug or [ plugs if a V6 or V8 ] on the side of the block ,located just above the oil pan usually in the center. Then on the bottom of each exhaust manifold remove that plug. Many Exhaust manifold risers also have a drain plug on the side near the bottom of riser. That's it, a few plugs ,no antifreeze and your done

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Yea, guys I didn't really know what to do about this, should I say something, should I just keep it to myself, not to be a prick, but I took some heat on subjects such as. I know people have used this theory for years, and I get if you still continue going this rout. I have a 18ft run about that I take the kids tubing or skiing, it has a 3.0 in it 2 drain plugs and your done, honestly guys I thought this was a bullet proof way to rid the cooling system of water at those hard to get at areas. I used to just drain the whole system and blow all the water out. It's been since I joined this site and most guys were using this methood. I'm going back to the old school ways.


I have the 3.0 mercruiser motor is there somewhere I can look to get reliable info on winterizing it. I'd like to be able to get out in April but can not afford to lose my block.

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That's just it BoB, it's not that simple on mine, I have to unbolt my P/S bracket, which who ever thought of that set up should have to do it twice a day everyday. Then you need to take a part of the floor up remove the water hose from the P/S cooler, now stand on you head to reach the drain. This year I'm going to put a fitting in the block which accepts a 3/8 OD, hose and I'm going to put a clamp on there and the valve in the end of the hose that I can reach from the port side, to eliminate have to go through all this. I thought I always wanted a I/O but I'm pretty convinced there will be at least 350hp behind me whether it 1 or 2 power plants, should I ever have the chance in this lifetime?? We are never satisfied all I ever had as a younger lad was outboards, very limited problems, since my ego I'm the man, I need to hear that brute HP and the male enhanced sound of V8 power, my boat has more miles on the trailer than the water since I made this decision!!! Had I known that the 4 stroke world was going to evolve into that great machines they are, I would have waited it out. But after Mother Nature had me sitting at the dock more than fishing my dreams  of big waters for eyes and big silvers. It doesn't take much to please me, I'm not made of money and I certainly respect those that are more fortunate than I to have all the bells and whistles. With the money I have in tackle, spoons, sonars you name it, I could go on a charter every other week for the whole season. :lol:  Maybe even more??

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37 minutes ago, stoneam2006 said:

 

 


I have the 3.0 mercruiser motor is there somewhere I can look to get reliable info on winterizing it. I'd like to be able to get out in April but can not afford to lose my block.

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  Just google it, and its probably on you tube as well. Winterizing procedure on Mercruiser 3.0 or words to that affect. Should be a petcock on the bottom of the exhaust manifold ,more towards the stern than the bow. And the same with the block, just above the oil pan and I would think on both sides. Never owned a 3.0 so I am not 100% sure. Yep we got off the OPs original topic !

 

 

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As far as the pink anti-freeze goes, read the lable.  Some of them tell you right on the label "Not for engine use."

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I think this thread might be why I have always had outboards:lol:

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On 2/22/2017 at 10:15 PM, pap said:

This winter I had a block crack on me, I drained the block, the exhaust manifolds and then I used 5 gallons of the RV antifreeze. Figuring that the five would push the water out that I missed. Put the tarp on and parked her under the garage port. Well this winter I needed a multi meter that I left in the boat. I uncovered a place to climb in and while I was in there I figured I'll take a look at my baby, after looking her over I noticed a stalactite hanging out the center of my block. At first I thought water must have run under the tarp or something, after looking as to where the water might of got in I came to a decision, one I didn't want to admit to. I broke the pink icicle off and tasted it, FFF'n A it tastes like antifreeze and I could see there was a crack in the block right in the middle 2-5 cylinder. So I pulled the motor pulled it a part, took the heads to be pressure checked, I saved the plates I made to pressure check exhaust manifolds, everything passed. I had another motor out of a CheckMate that I pulled and saved. It was supposed to be rebuilt buy our local marinia, and never saw water. Well god was on my side as she was brand new and bored .30 over like mine so I swapped heads mine are better and my crank and rods and the rings were spot on. Well I got her bolted back in and timed ready to roll. So I got one hell of an education on RV antifreeze, first RV pink gets slushy at 28* and freezes bone hard at 10* but what it doesn't do is push or expand like water, but the more you dilute it the more strength it has to expand. What I didn't drain on my boat motor was the power steering cooler and the hose to the water pump. I thought after running 5 gallons through the system it would have pushed it out. I don't run a thermostat so I didn't have the theory that the stat didn't open. So I called the company and he told me that the RV doesn't stay in a liquid form as we think of antifreeze at 28*F it gets slushy and at 10*F it gets bone hard, but what doesn't to is expand like water, the more it gets diluted the more the water properties take over. I did a bunch of testing using a pint mason jar with a rubber ring and a locking lid to hold the lid on tight. A pint jar with a half cup of water pushed the lid up and broke the jar. That's 2/3rds to 1. I put a 1/4 cup of water and the pink pushed out from under the lid but did not break the glass. I put a 1/8 of a cup and it made for stone hard and very crystal like. So it doesn't take much to render the RV antifreeze worthless. I still have my last jar in the freezer which is at 13* I'll post picks so you can see for yourself. The jars with the screwdriver is a Phillips that I had to hammer in. And you can see how bulged up the lid is and there's juice in the bagyimage.thumb.jpg.c534fca314600a2a7166c498011586ea.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.cb907247d280c68972f7b5083c3a3d6b.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.29561111147c0bf5663135e6f6654737.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.f67fab309459f44c3e0bfc8261deed43.jpg

 

 

 

What brand was that?

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I used Peak RV pink Anti-Freeze. I've used Peak anti freeze in my vehicles for years. To Landing Craft, it reads for Marine use. But according to the product Rep. His words were "we do not recommend using our RV anti freeze in the motor nor will we guarantee our product if used in the motor, I said now wait, we are not "running it as a sealed unit" or relying on it to keep the radiator from freezing, he just couldn't understand for what purpose I was even putting it in the motor for period!!, it's to be used for sink traps and a splash in the toilet. I told him we put it in the motor as a rust inhibitor. He just didn't want to hear anything as to why I would even think about putting the RV antifreeze in the motor :tmi: if your going through all the trouble to rid the water in the motor so it wont freeze and bust. Why would you put everything back together and put a product back in not designed to do what your using it for??  How do you argue that point!!? So that's how our conversation ended, I guess your right Mr Peak antifreeze :smoke:

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The product IS called antifreeze .... I am not sure why the rep is incredulous. 

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You guys can debate this pink juice issue until the "cows come home."  I am forever done with it in my boat. First and last year for it.

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3 minutes ago, TileMan Dan said:

You guys can debate this pink juice issue until the "cows come home."  I am forever done with it in my boat. First and last year for it.

That makes 2 of us, I'm going to make my valves easy to get at, even if I have to put a female end in the block add a peice of hose and a valve in the end of that. Then blow the water out of the block. Hey when they winterize the campers in the campsite they blow out the lines, splash a little pink juice in the traps done deal. I know some of you guys been doing this for 20+ years with no problems. I'm not saying that you should stop, what ever you feel comfortable doing, carry on!! This is the second motor in this boat, this time it was my doing. I say it that way because maybe I did screw it up myself, after 5 gallons coming out the exhaust I thought it should have pushed the little water that was left  in the system out. Guys I ain't got an once of luck so if they made a weak batch or I screwed it up it won't happen again!!

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I am wondering if there is different formulations among manufacturers?  West Marine sells the 5 Gallon tub I use and their labeling on their fluid states for engines?  I am going to use the PAP test on west marine stuff and see what happens. 

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1 hour ago, Gill-T said:

I am wondering if there is different formulations among manufacturers?  West Marine sells the 5 Gallon tub I use and their labeling on their fluid states for engines?  I am going to use the PAP test on west marine stuff and see what happens. 

 

Yea, I'd love to see the difference, maybe I just thought RV antifreeze was the stuff to use, maybe I did FK it up? Because I used the one gallon jugs that taper up to the lid, not the regular square handled jugs like the automotive type antifreeze comes in. That would be my luck. But -50 is -50 no matter what the container??

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I see the Starbrite -100 says "do not dilute ". Three different manufacturers that claim their usage is for RV or winterizing boat engines. PAP on the surface I think you got the wrong stuff. I am going to try your test. I have to pick up some solution before my next outing. 

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Gill you know me I can't rest at night thinking I messed up my own motor. The first pink juice -50* not for in engine. The 2nd pink juice reads for engine use to -50* but the first thing I read was.( don't believe west marine, only good to +15 because you can't get all the water out and it gets diluted to much) thank you sir either 1 of 2 things are going on!! Either your luck is as poor as mine?? Or we are both to stupid:lol: to winterize our boats. now the "blue juice at $8.00 a gallon might be the shyt to use" ok I went to the product statistics not a single pink antifreeze is good down to -50*F basically your paying for the amount of glycol which is the QUOTE antifreeze the less expensive has only 28% glycol which slushed at 28*F and the burst point is 14-15*F. There isn't 1 pink antifreeze that even is close to -50, all are above 0 degrees F only the - 100*F gets you beyond the -0*F burst point!!!:swear:

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Pap my boat is on West end. Because the lake water tempers our winter lows, we rarely see temps below 15 degrees so maybe that is how I have escaped damage. 

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The RV anti-freeze does freeze but does not expand that is why they use it in RV lines, traps, tanks, ect. Now if you had some water mixed with it yes it will freeze and expand cracking whatever is holding it. I would highly recommend staying away from the pink stuff for use while winterizing a boat and if you need to put any anti freeze in use the 50/50 glycol mix and run it on muffs before dropping in the water to keep pollutants out of the lake. Not only that the glycol mix is a rust inhibitor compared to the RV anti freeze.

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