steelhead strong

When to put your boat in the water?

70 posts in this topic

I was just curious as to see how early guys put their boats in the water and not have to worry about freeze ups when they get home. I have the itch with a new boat and a bunch of new trolling equipment and can't wait to get out on the water. But obviously right now the boat is winterized and it isn't worth winterizing over again just to go for one weekend.

 

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First weekend in April for me usually. That's when they swing the bridge at the mouth of I-Bay bay also.

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Depends on where you dock it and what you have for engines. Generally speaking a I/O s outdrive will conduct the water temp into the block and MAYBE keep it from freezing. If a closed system not that big of a deal. If at dock with electric you can put a small heater or 100 watt light bulb in the doghouse with or without a timer. 2 stroke outboard,no problem,4 stroke may have a thermostat that traps water in the block, which can freeze unless drained. Straight inboard, raw water cooled, good idea to heat it ,closed system will keep the block from cracking but you have exhaust manifolds to worry about , heat may be needed there as well. Many variables including a hard freeze vs just hitting 30-32 at night. I go in late March, early April depending on long range forecast.

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if you set up a bucket with a hose and a set of muffs to put on your water intake on the lowerunit. carry a few gallons of rv anti freeze with you.  pull it out of the water  slap the muffs on it and run some rv anti freeze thru the engine till it comes out the exhaust.

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it's to early if you don't winterize your own boat. I think it was 1993 we had a freak snow storm in March towards the end of the month, at that time the BRCG opened up the last week in March. It was beautiful for weeks, most people were out and about with there boats. One night we had a wicked snow storm. I think it was like close to a foot of snow. Everyone who had a Bimini tops was in sad shape, at the time I had a 1988 18ft center console the snow was half way up gunwales. The rods of the Bimini top people were bent, twisted, canopies were smashed flat over seats the floor you name it. I shoveled our boat out that was sitting very low in the water, we all shoveled the docks off, and the boats out. Others were in sad shape. That year the canopy making guys made a mint!! That was a crazy year for storms, the weather forecast people really didn't say it was going to give snow like it did, everyone was like, Ya, Ya, 2-3 inches we probably won't even get that!! The next morning when we couldn't even open the camper door, wtf. Holy shyt dad look at the F'n snow, that's when all hell broke loose. The canopies on the trailers were down over the doors of the campers, if not tore off. Luckily ours was rolled up yet, but the weight of the snow on the roof pinched the door shut. They are calling for below freezing temps at the end of the week at night. Be patient yet!! 

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I aim for first of April. But if any hint of temp below 28-29 in the forecast, I will think twice. I have pure inboards and cracking the block just plain isn't worth it.


The Fishin' Physician Assistant
Fishsodusbay.com

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This winter I had a block crack on me, I drained the block, the exhaust manifolds and then I used 5 gallons of the RV antifreeze. Figuring that the five would push the water out that I missed. Put the tarp on and parked her under the garage port. Well this winter I needed a multi meter that I left in the boat. I uncovered a place to climb in and while I was in there I figured I'll take a look at my baby, after looking her over I noticed a stalactite hanging out the center of my block. At first I thought water must have run under the tarp or something, after looking as to where the water might of got in I came to a decision, one I didn't want to admit to. I broke the pink icicle off and tasted it, FFF'n A it tastes like antifreeze and I could see there was a crack in the block right in the middle 2-5 cylinder. So I pulled the motor pulled it a part, took the heads to be pressure checked, I saved the plates I made to pressure check exhaust manifolds, everything passed. I had another motor out of a CheckMate that I pulled and saved. It was supposed to be rebuilt buy our local marinia, and never saw water. Well god was on my side as she was brand new and bored .30 over like mine so I swapped heads mine are better and my crank and rods and the rings were spot on. Well I got her bolted back in and timed ready to roll. So I got one hell of an education on RV antifreeze, first RV pink gets slushy at 28* and freezes bone hard at 10* but what it doesn't do is push or expand like water, but the more you dilute it the more strength it has to expand. What I didn't drain on my boat motor was the power steering cooler and the hose to the water pump. I thought after running 5 gallons through the system it would have pushed it out. I don't run a thermostat so I didn't have the theory that the stat didn't open. So I called the company and he told me that the RV doesn't stay in a liquid form as we think of antifreeze at 28*F it gets slushy and at 10*F it gets bone hard, but what doesn't to is expand like water, the more it gets diluted the more the water properties take over. I did a bunch of testing using a pint mason jar with a rubber ring and a locking lid to hold the lid on tight. A pint jar with a half cup of water pushed the lid up and broke the jar. That's 2/3rds to 1. I put a 1/4 cup of water and the pink pushed out from under the lid but did not break the glass. I put a 1/8 of a cup and it made for stone hard and very crystal like. So it doesn't take much to render the RV antifreeze worthless. I still have my last jar in the freezer which is at 13* I'll post picks so you can see for yourself. The jars with the screwdriver is a Phillips that I had to hammer in. And you can see how bulged up the lid is and there's juice in the bagyimage.thumb.jpg.c534fca314600a2a7166c498011586ea.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.cb907247d280c68972f7b5083c3a3d6b.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.29561111147c0bf5663135e6f6654737.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.f67fab309459f44c3e0bfc8261deed43.jpg

Edited by pap

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So perhaps the workflow for winterization should be.  Warm engine ---- Drain Petcocks-----Apply antifreeze thru muffs.  Thanks for posting....very informative.  

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Air doesn't freeze. I always take off all water plugs on engine/transmission, manifolds, power steering and blow air into them [ including wash down pump and fresh water in the cabin system ]. I don't bother with antifreeze or RV ,never had a issue. Good to hear you had a spare ready to go.

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I always shoot for April 1st. Mother nature makes the final call. It could be as early as mid March or as late as mid April. Temps in the 20s is what keeps the boat on blocks. 

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Great ifo in this post. Thanks Pap for that info and pics on the RV antifreeze. I used to use it in my live well  for winterization but no   more :lol:

Edited by Sk8man

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18 minutes ago, Bozeman Bob said:

Air doesn't freeze. I always take off all water plugs on engine/transmission, manifolds, power steering and blow air into them [ including wash down pump and fresh water in the cabin system ]. I don't bother with antifreeze or RV ,never had a issue. Good to hear you had a spare ready to go.

Bob that's the rout I took, like you said air doesn't freeze, but I had rust get into my system and ruin a motor, the theory behind the antifreeze is it stop the rust build up. I know people are saying "I've been doing this for umpteen years and I don't know what I'm doing" well you could be right. Because I didn't remove the water from the power steering pump and the water in the water pump hose. I talked to a very knowledgeable man that works at Beltzville manor marinea, after this took place and he told me they don't use this theory anymore !!. Two reasons he said, it's a added expense to the customer and we had to replace a motor at our expense. The boat I bought came from NY, and it was stored at Lake Oneida and the original motor froze and broke. I'm leaning towards something I could put in 5 gallons of water that would coat the inside of the manifolds and block and go back to the old school. There are other RV antifreeze comp. that claim theirs goes to 70 below, but what's to gain other than more $$$ pissed away. This would only happen to me, but I think a lot of people think as I did that this antifreeze stays at a liquid form, that is not the case folks!!! It freezes solid, just it's not supposed to expand as water does. Who's to say these jugs are flying around on a assemble line, juice, cap, label a thousand jugs a hour suppose a weak batch was put in?? OHH THIS IS WHAT THE MANUFACTURER TOLD ME, this antifreeze is NOT TO BE USE IN THE ENGINE!!! I said then why does it say marine on the jug. It's supposed to be used in the toilets the drains of sinks and used in this manner NOT TO BE USED IN THE MOTOR. Therefore I was out of any compensation from the company. Basically I'm F'd find another towel to cry in. :headbang:  :swear:.     Just another day in PAP'S world LOL.

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More I read about your situation I am afraid to go poke my head under the wrap and look at mine.  This was the first year I ever used the pink juice, usually 50;50 antifreeze.

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So if the pink stuff is good enough for pvc to not crack then I would think it would not crack metal engine parts either. I have been using the pink stuff for 10 years ( knock on wood)

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 You must be able to drain your motor better than I, I thought this was a sure fire way to rid the water i can't get to with out pulling the whole side apart on my starboard side, the power steering cooler hose that run to the lower unit pump and my water pump hose, I drained the water pump?? I'm going to put a fitting in the block and run a 3/8 hose and a valve in the end of my hose and blow the water out of my power steering cooler and pull my water pump hose, and just drain the block anymore. The reasons they don't recommend putting it in the block is for reasons such as mine. Then their not at fault!!!

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While I understand the theory behind the rust and "lubrication" of water pump etc. I put that in the long term storage layup. Not in the 5-6  month layup that we do. I had a power steering exchanger crack one year and all I did was remove exchanger and add a few feet of hose that I laid on the bottom of boat, never had a issue  with doing that.

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My order of winterizing is , bring motor up to temp on muffs, shut down , open all petcocks and plugs, close petcocks and install plugs, start sump pump in anti freeze, run to temp , shut down , open petcocks and open plugs and let drain. So far so good.

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Automotive anti freeze is highly poisonous. Never drain it in the ground, pay to recycle it. Dogs like to taste it and they die. RV antifreeze has been safe in RV's for drinking water lines but we always drink bottled water.


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I agree Jim, I have my beagle running around the kids, every year we winterize our oun trailers, and never had issues with the pink. The water in the campground is so chlorinated you can't even make a good pot of coffee in the morning. We bring water or buy at Wally World when we stock up on goodies. Meanwhile rebuilding my motor took a lot of my time up. I need to fix a cannon mag 20, make plates up to mount my rod tree I bought off reeldeal, this winter and like I said my one rigger is much slower than the other, so we will see once we get inside this bad girl. I hope it's pretty straight foreword. 

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Great info Pap...thanks for sharing your education!

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Thanks fishtails, My dad always said an education in life always comes with a price tag.  Boy was he ever correct.  :tmi:. Before I tested my pink icicle  after I tested the icicle:swear:    :headbang:

 

 

 

 

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