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I fish mostly on Keuka Lake. I do not have riggers as of yet, so I use weights to troll with. I wanted to try my hand with lead this year. As of reels, I have two Penn GTi 320's. I can also pick up two Sealine Great Lakes 47 LC's for 42.00 delivered. These are in excellent condition. The lake is deep, so most likely I'll need a bunch of lead. So any preference on those two reels.

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5 colors (25' down)or 6 colors tops is what you are gonna get on a 47 with some power pro backing in there. The 320 GTis could hold 10 colors (50' down) or maybe 300' copper (60' down)

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I'd use the 320"s  better drag system and a little more capacity. I have a couple set up for 5 and 7 colors with 200 yds of 30 lb backing. If you can find power handles for them it could help with the line take up. To get deeper just use snap weights before the leader connection; otherwise wire set-ups are better suited to the deep water stuff and bottom trolling for lakers.

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9 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

I'd use the 320"s  better drag system and a little more capacity. I have a couple set up for 5 and 7 colors with 200 yds of 30 lb backing. If you can find power handles for them it could help with the line take up. To get deeper just use snap weights before the leader connection; otherwise wire set-ups are better suited to the deep water stuff and bottom trolling for lakers.

So I've never done it but I'm surprised at the weight before the leader I would have thought you would want a snap weight at the beginning of the backing so as not to kill the action of the leadcore. But Like I said I've never done it so what I know can be written on the back of a stamp.

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Chowder and Sk8man are giving you good info.  The Daiwa 47 Great Lakes have a balky drag unless they have had drags up graded to carbon fiber and are a 5 color tops reel.  For a 10 color the Penn 330 is an old time traditional choice.  The Penn GTi American made reels are workhorses.  One way to use a bit smaller reel is to use Tuff Line Micro Lead as it has a thinner sheath with a smaller diameter than other lead core manufacturers.  A snap weight that will work on leadcore without damaging it is the Michigan Stinger Dive Bomb so you can attach weight midway on leadcore as you deploy.

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1 hour ago, horsehunter said:

So I've never done it but I'm surprised at the weight before the leader I would have thought you would want a snap weight at the beginning of the backing so as not to kill the action of the leadcore. But Like I said I've never done it so what I know can be written on the back of a stamp.

You can do it a number of ways even having the weight on a slider going up and down the leadcore:smile:. I like the lure pulling the leadcore downward a little but depending on what I am running I do it both ways

Edited by Sk8man

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3 hours ago, Sk8man said:

You can do it a number of ways even having the weight on a slider going up and down the leadcore:smile:. I like the lure pulling the leadcore downward a little but depending on what I am running I do it both ways

 

So now I'm thinking out loud could you get a 2 colour to anywhare you want it by putting a snap weight on your backing and varying weight and placement on the backing. Possibly using snap weight numbers and adding 10 feet.

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I should qualify what I meant by "slider" as it could be confused with what we use with downriggers which is totally different. These sliders are originally from the world of saltwater stillfishing and I adapt them in a number of ways to the fishing I do in fresh water. Here is a pic. Basically the weight is suspended from the large duolock snap and the yellow collar is rotated  either clockwise or counter clockwise on the slotted part so it stays on your line. The weight can then slide up and down the mainline,or backing as desired and will stop at a swivel snap or if a split shot is placed on the line in a desired spot and then taken off when retrieved. If I wish to have a weight stay put somewhere on the line I use the offshore release type with the pinch pad and place it wherever I desire.

slider.jpg

Edited by Sk8man

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You can buy a set of used manual riggers and weights for probably 200$ . 

 

What's a rod , reel , backing and  lead core cost ?

 

The heart of any small boat deepwater trolling program is a set of riggers IMO ..

 

My setup , and I love it . 

KIMG0850.jpg

Edited by HB2

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All great info. Thanks. I use the 320's on 9 foot medium ugly sticks and use an off shore tackle diving tadpole weight, a small dodger and a small spoon such as sutton or similar.  Sounds like I'll keep them and load them up for lead. Already have the backing.  

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in regards to the snap weights - look at the torpedo shark weights (4 oz).  I have no issues getting a 200 weighted still setup (roughly 40 feet) down to 100-110' using the torpedo shark weight attached where backing (segmented braid from J braid) with a 8 inch spin doctor/meat rig - just use the chart provided with the weight  - have confirmed depths numerous times with a fish hawk td.  Lets you use alot smaller reels.  

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Get the riggers 

 

You won't be sorry . 

 

It simplifies everything and you will catch more fish . 

 

Money well spent . 

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8 minutes ago, HB2 said:

Get the riggers 

 

You won't be sorry . 

 

It simplifies everything and you will catch more fish . 

 

Money well spent . 

I agree with Gary.  Riggers give you more versatility and easier to deploy / work with. 

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Maybe the riggers would be easier, but,since I already have the rods, reels,backing,leader material for everyone and morel terminal ends I'll ever need, I think for the 30 bucks a reel for lead is worth the investment for this year coming. If I struggle,then maybe I'll consider the riggers.

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Junk lines suck . 

 

Sure they catch fish , but day in or day out , riggers rule for small boat tactics . 

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Rigg'rs & 320's … Don't leave home without them.

 

:smile:

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