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Cannon motor problems


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I have had nothing but good success with my Cannons , customer service has always treated me right with any problem I ever had from my cannon mini mags to STX 10's .

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Customer service with cannon has been unbelievably good for me. They've sent many new caps for free and metal conversion kits for the low profile swivel bases at no charge. No shipping costs. Heck, about 15 years ago we had an issue with a rigger and they sent a new digitroll for free! Been lucky maybe....

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The problem with blowing the HS board (PN 3394002) is not limited to just 15 lb weights.  I ran 3 Mag 10HS riggers over a period of 2 years and blew 5 boards in that time.  All three riggers blew boards and two of them only saw 12 lb weights.

 

Although I was frustrated with the poor reliability, I like Cannon products for their ease of use, ergonomics, etc.  Their customer service was good (not great) as they paid for most of the costs of repair (but not shipping).

 

In the end, I bought 3 new Mag 10 STX which have been super reliable so far, with the only issue being the bouncing weight on the ultra fast start and stops. (Snapped off one 12 lb weight.)

 

JAM

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I bought two new Digi-Troll 10 last season , I had issues with them tripping the circuit breaker and one would just freeze up..... found the boat guys put in too low of breaker changed them out and it was fine. The freezing up was and is still a problem. I have not address this with them yet.

 

That is how my problems started.  A couple of blow fuses (correct size), then freezing.  Sometimes the ball would go down.....some times it would not.  Sometimes it came up....sometimes it didn't.  Lots of fun hand rolling the rigger spool when there is a 15 lb weight 100' down there and rigger dies.  To be honest I never contacted Cannon directly as I do not have the time to sit on hold and deal with the issue during business hours.  I believe there is only a three month warranty on the units.  I wish they had odometers on them as this might help prove how little they were used.  The overhaul from manual to electric was performed during the offseason so by the time the riggers are actually used come spring they are already out of warranty.  Again, these were NEW everything except the bases, and booms.  One of the spools I ugraded to a stainless model so even one of those was new.

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As w/ any motor i wonder if it is not the rigger but it not getting enough amps to do the work. If i work on bad power on my const jobs, I tend to cook the armatures on them . Could be the same thing . I have an I/O &  305 chevy  alternator & notice a retrive diff . If I at at say 650 - 850 rpms. A lot of you guys are running kickers that don't generate much amps for a 15lb wt. at deep depths.

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As w/ any motor i wonder if it is not the rigger but it not getting enough amps to do the work. If i work on bad power on my const jobs, I tend to cook the armatures on them . Could be the same thing . I have an I/O &  305 chevy  alternator & notice a retrive diff . If I at at say 650 - 850 rpms. A lot of you guys are running kickers that don't generate much amps for a 15lb wt. at deep depths.

A 12 volt battery that needs to be replaced will do that too

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I blew two circuit boards in my one mag 20. The cause was my fault. The little rubber boot the covers the switch had a crack in it. Water got into the switch and caused a short. Once I replaced the rubber boot, the problem went away. I just replace those riggers after 13 seasons of abuse. Those riggers saw a ton of stress dragging bottom for lakers with only the one rigger burning up 2 boards. The other two riggers were bullet proof.

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I thought a lack of power supplied to the riggers might be an issue.  I was told it was most likely not an amperage issue.  I have two batteries hooked up to a perko battery switch with the switch on "both" so plenty of juice.

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So after contacting Cannon representative thru their customer service email service, the company is standing behind their less then adequate 3 month warranty.  I have received no satisfaction from going down this path.   Would anyone buy something if they thought it would last only 3 months?  Inferior product, inferior warranty.  I will look elsewhere when it comes time to buy new.  

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I have never had this problem, but if I may jump in. I would suggest using a capacitor on these systems. Auto batteries are notoriously unstable in voltage. From what I have seen, most riggers are wired straight to the battery or an distribution block. Low voltage circuit boards really really do not like voltage flux. These riggers use a lot of power in a hurry. 

 

For example, I had a problem this winter with lights dimming when my plow was moving. I installed a capacitor and all better.  

 

I am installing a full farad capacitor this spring as a preventive measure. $89 is cheap insurance. 

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Help me out here as I am not an electrician.  Where is the capacitor placed?  Between the rigger and the battery?  I am wired direct to the battery.  The capacitors I see available are for marine stereo applications.  Wouldn't onboard chargers have a capacitor built in?

Edited by Gill-T
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Nobody has said anything about wire quality and gauge going to the riggers. They draw quite a bit of current and if the wire gauge is too small you could be dropping several volts between the battery and the rigger and you can get a huge momentary dip in voltage on startup. Also, for longer wires you need a heavier gauge. It is the same way with bow mount trolling motors. You also have to make sure every connection is clean and tight. Being in a marine environment, connections need to be checked periodicly. Keep in mind that if the wire or connector contact is dull looking there is corrosion that needs to be cleaned off (with sand paper or scotch brite pad) before you make the connection or crimp. Dielectric grease can help to slow down corrosion and improve connections.

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Another issue could be the plugs.  I was told if there is any kind of corrosion on or in the plugs, it can cause these types of problems.

With electrical problems most people put the carriage before the horse, check the most obvious places first, first the plugs than at the power source if linked to a battery selector then check that point also, now Gill says new everything so that leaves the link battery selector. Mine went bad and I was getting a major amp draw I noticed in my trim, when I went to trim the motor I noticed the voltage swing was major everything checked out at the motor, long story short battery 1 selector side had a problem, so new switch no problem. I would take the batteries out and have them checked out with a electronic battery tester they give you an amp draw with the voltage drop they can detect if the amp draw is in sink with voltage drop, some batteries just crash with a amp draw causing very low voltage to to compensate for the amp draw causing excessive heat at the main source, being theses new units have circuit boards there is no room for error.

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I don't know Pap, I have a voltage meter at the helm and I have never detected low voltage issues.

Yea, you definitely have a unique situation on your hands there!!! I've been following the thread but nothing really popped out like an aha that's a problem. I really hate to think that Cannon built a hand grenade, as never had a problem but my riggers are old mag 10's. I can't help from wondering why anyone would incorporate a circuit board in the elements of the marine world, but to keep up with demands of the auto this and that, they had to create a brain in the system somewhere.

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Exactly!  I like simple.....that is why I didn't get the digitrol model.  A simple machine that goes up and down.  I don't think my center Big Jon Brute has a circuit board.

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Are you using one battery for everything? Is the meter at the helm reading voltage of the battery that is suplying the riggers? Even if it is, it is measuring the battery voltage. It is not measuring the voltage at the rigger. Since the rigger draws a considerable amount of current, any connection problem or if the wiring to the rigger in not of adequete size for the application there will be a drop in voltage at the downrigger. the voltage at the battery could read ok but the voltage at the downrigger could be reduced. Also since the motor will momentarrily require more current when it is starting than when it is running, the voltage will drop even more for that moment. The only way to know for sure if you are losing power is to check the voltage at the rigger when you run it under load. Keep in mind that with a 12 volt system, the wire needs to be of of high enough gauge to supply enough current. With all wire, there is always a votage drop. When you increase the length of the wire or increase the current draw, the voltave drop will increase. Cannon probably recomends a minimum wire gauge that should be used, and maxumum length. You have to increase the gauge with a longer length.

Edited by muskiedreams
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