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all you need is a simple overhand knot. Start by putting a small piece of shrink tubing on wire,run the wire through the swivel and make an overhand knot.(Like the first step in tying your shoe )pull it tight using pliers on the tag slide the shrink tubing over the tag end and heat it.Works great for downrigger swivels as well

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On ‎6‎/‎25‎/‎2019 at 4:11 PM, VanderLaan said:

So, basically tie a loop in the wire and then thread the loop through the eye of the swivel and snug it down on the opposite side?  No concerns about the kink in the line weakening it? 

 

Yes, that loop is tied with an overhand knot.

 

No worries about the kink ... all the charters do this ... I've NEVER had a failure there.  The trick is, it doesn't get re-stressed, once it's snug, it doesn't get fatigued over and over, which would cause a break ... it's snug, doesn't move, stays strong.

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On ‎6‎/‎25‎/‎2019 at 8:37 PM, Sloooo Motion said:

all you need is a simple overhand knot. Start by putting a small piece of shrink tubing on wire,run the wire through the swivel and make an overhand knot.(Like the first step in tying your shoe )pull it tight using pliers on the tag slide the shrink tubing over the tag end and heat it.Works great for downrigger swivels as well

 

I'm not sure I completely understand but it sounds like you put the wire end through swivel once and tie an overhand knot. If so, that means that only 1 wire thickness holds the swivel. In the technique above, the wire is doubled up, so in fact there are two wire thicknesses holding the swivel, it's a much stronger knot.

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I'm not sure I completely understand but it sounds like you put the wire end through swivel once and tie an overhand knot. If so, that means that only 1 wire thickness holds the swivel. In the technique above, the wire is doubled up, so in fact there are two wire thicknesses holding the swivel, it's a much stronger knot.

No, fold the site back on itself making a loop. Make an overhang knot with the loop end. Adjust the size of the loop as you tighten the overhand knot. Now squeeze the loop and feed the loop through the swivel’s eye. Then feed the snap through the loop. Close the loop around the snap swivel’s ring and tighten by pulling on the snap swivel.


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I bought a crimper. I use aluminum cable crimps. I use them on my steel rods and my rigger cable.  I've never had a problem. 

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I take an egg sinker and crimp it over the knot . 

 

Covers the knot and there is always some weight on the wire to eliminate curling . I use a 2 oz,on my riggers for same result . 

 

It works ! KIMG0817.thumb.jpg.296906cb5c0b2b4544ae2b8f03326a25.jpg

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On ‎6‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 12:14 PM, John E Powell said:


No, fold the site back on itself making a loop. Make an overhang knot with the loop end. Adjust the size of the loop as you tighten the overhand knot. Now squeeze the loop and feed the loop through the swivel’s eye. Then feed the snap through the loop. Close the loop around the snap swivel’s ring and tighten by pulling on the snap swivel.


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That's exactly what I was suggesting.  See the video, I'm just suggesting do the overhand knot first ... as you are.

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On ‎6‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 4:11 PM, HB2 said:

I take an egg sinker and crimp it over the knot . 

 

Covers the knot and there is always some weight on the wire to eliminate curling . I use a 2 oz,on my riggers for same result . 

 

It works ! KIMG0817.thumb.jpg.296906cb5c0b2b4544ae2b8f03326a25.jpg

 

That's smart. Some guys use a trout bead right after the knot.

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