Wiring Cannon Mag 10

[Beyond Upstate]

I am getting power supply hooked up for two new downriggers. Boat is a center console with two marine starting batteries located ahead of the console under the frack. Power runs from there to a selector switch under helm. Then there is power run from the switch back to transom post, and from those transom post to the outboard engine. This picture shows those transom terminals.

[Beyond Upstate]

Question is, if I run power from here, will it burn up the 10 ga wire to the downriggers when I start the engine? I checked the supply with the downrigger by touching the wires to those transom terminals with engine off and battery switch on, worked fine. But not sure what might happen when I start the engine with high amperage draw. Downriggers are protected by built in 25 amp manual reset breakers.

[Misty IV]

I have a dedicated deep cycle battery for my downriggers and all electronics. The battery gets charged when the main engine is running and is isolated from the starting battery when the engine is off. I run the riggers through resettable circuit breakers to be safe.

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[orangediablo]

How would these be any different from other electronics on the boat?  As for the size of wire you need, it should be dependent on how long the cable it from the rigger to power source (recommendations are in the manual).

[Beyond Upstate]

It will be 10 ga wire to riggers. The transom post I believe is a high amperage post for power supply to start the engine, just wondering if when I actually start the engine and the amperage draw is needed, will it also travel through the downrigger wire?

[Beyond Upstate]

What I believe is possible, is that when starting the engine, that amperage draw will affect everything wired together. If the weakest link is the 10 guage wire then it would heat up and burn out, the supply from the selector switch and to the outboard is 2AWG, it won't burn up. I think I need the breaker at the terminal to protect the wire to the downriggers, but will that trip everytime the engine is started?

[Broadhorizons]

Doesn't Cannon also recommend using a 30A fuse as close to your power source as possible in addition to the built in breaker?

[Sk8man]

I know this comment is not directly related to your question but in looking at the pic above it looks as though your gas line (and primer bulb) is located very close to the wiring connections in the back and if it ever sprung a leak and gas sprayed on those connectors if the ground was faulty.....possibly  "kaboom" or a fire. I think I'd be trying to relocate them or the gas line a little further away. Just a suggestion...

Edited April 30, 2014 by Sk8man

[holy mackerel]

The circuit breaker on the downrigger protects the downrigger circuit. You need a fuse at the power source (fuse block) to protect the wiring. It will not draw from the downrigger, it is not a power source. I have mine wired to the battery switch, fused, and the power is disconnected when the switch is off.

[jigstick]

First off I would switch one of your batteries to a deep cycle.  Ideally you want one cranking battery to turn over your engine, and then a deep cycle to wire all of your electronics too.  The best setup is having these two types of batteries joined with a Perko 1-2-Both-Off Switch.  

 

Then run a 4 gauge red Positive wire from the "common" post on your Perko Switch to a fuse block made my BlueSea systems.  Run a 4 gauge black Negative wire from a ground post on one of your battery up to the fuse block.  

 

Mount this fuse block where it won't get wet.  I personally would mount it by your helm, or inside your center console.  

 

Then run the wires from your new awesome electronic down riggers up to your new fuse block.  Install appropriate sized fuses to protect those bad boys, and you are up and running with a very professional, safe, and expandable electrical system.

 

This  is how I have my boat wired.  All of my aftermarket electronics run off of a Bluesea Systems fuse block that I mounted behind my dash.  No garbled wires hanging off of the batteries.  Everything is fuse protected, organized, and powered with short runs.

[Jeremy Goodison]

I agree with jigstick. I got new boat last weekend and had to wire 2 new mag tens, X4, fish finder, and radar. I used the blue sea fuse box and its mint. Nice and organized and clean looking. Any issues on the water and look for the blown fuse. the six place fuse block had a maximum of 100 amp. So if you ever planned on third ot fourth rigger you would go to the next size up. I wish I would of in hind site because I plan on power masts. West Marine Carries them . Cheaper on line but if your impatient like me there in stock

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[Hookedup]

I have multiple blue seas fuse boxes on the boat they are great. For the riggers I ran heavy gauge wire from batt to a 100 amp breaker then from that to the fuse box all riggers run to fuse box. Then when boat is not in use I just hit the switch on the breaker and you have no power draw to worry about.

[jimski2]

The shortest run to the supply battery is best with 12 volt systems. Aircraft have 24 and 32 volt systems due to the longer runs from the battery.

[Adk1]

My mag 10's I purchased two new wiring cords for them from fish307. I installed an inline fuse in each. They connect to a new deep cycle battery along with all other electronics. My cranking battery is solely for the main engine

[RSF]

Jigstick's on the mark.  I'd add as a rule of thumb your engine cables must always be mounted directly to the starting battery. And any cables running from the battery (primary or secondary) must me fused at the battery first, then to the fuse box wherever it's located. The fuse rate at the battery would be the same or slightly less than the total draw of all electronics attached to the fuse box. The whole idea of having a master fuse at the battery is incase of a short circuit between the fuse box and the battery it could very well result in a fire if No Fuse is used at the battery.