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Floor replacement


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Use the same size as what was original to the boat. Generally, that is 1/2".  ACX is exterior grade with less voids.

Paint or seal the ply for protection from moisture. Use vinyl on the surface. It's possible you have more than a soft floor issue.

You may have to remove a bunch of waterlogged foam and you may have transom issues. Everything is doable and you can get lots of info on Youtube, Iboats, and here as well.

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Transom is solid, the floor rotted out from previous owner . Boat had a 2 stroke with an oil tank in the rear, either a leaky tank or just a lot of spillage trying to fill it the floor was oil rotted, once that started water compounded the problem. Instead of doing a piece meal job I removed the entire floor. Stringers all look good , i would replace all the styrefoam weather it has life left in it or not. 

Original floor had carpet, I was thinking about an Epoxy floor instead of a covering. Guessing the ACX plywood should be covered with an oil based paint or clear polyurethene.

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To keep things in perspective most of the plywood in a transom or on a floor has had minimal or no treatment coming from the factory, so in many cases this has lasted 25, 30 years or more unless there was some sort of breach, something spilled on it, or something drilled through and not sealed.   Therefore as I mentioned above taking the minimal steps to improve things as part of the replacement is going to last perhaps 35 or 40 years.    But again, a lot of material choices to ponder. 

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When you replace the floor, you will also have to replace the foam that is under the floor. It is probably water soaked and very heavy. You can either use CLOSED cell foam in boards which you can cut in strips you can buy at Lowes or buy the liquid that expands when you pour it. Every boat under 20 foot length must have it by law. Do not use styrofoam. It is not a closed cell material and will soak up water.

Before installing that ,you should look at a bunch of Youtubes about the how and why.

You do not need marine grade plywood for a floor, granted ,it is a lot denser and would be very good material but it rots just as fast as any other plywood. The secret is in how you seal the wood. As mentioned above, you should seal the top and the bottom with several layers of paint ,or ideally, epoxy paint that penetrates and seals. Do not use pressure treated plywood, the chemicals in pressure treated react to the aluminum and will cause severe corrosion. The vinyl covering is a good idea. I have glued it on in my boats with always a few inches of overlap going up the sides to make sure no water would get under the floor.

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1 hour ago, leadcore troller said:

Transom is solid, the floor rotted out from previous owner . Boat had a 2 stroke with an oil tank in the rear, either a leaky tank or just a lot of spillage trying to fill it the floor was oil rotted, once that started water compounded the problem. Instead of doing a piece meal job I removed the entire floor. Stringers all look good , i would replace all the styrefoam weather it has life left in it or not. 

Original floor had carpet, I was thinking about an Epoxy floor instead of a covering. Guessing the ACX plywood should be covered with an oil based paint or clear polyurethene.

Not sure what you're referring to by stringers? Never seen an aluminum boat with stringers, An epoxy floor is fine but you would not apply an epoxy over paint or poly. Only over the bare wood. I would not use poly regardless. Generally, becomes brittle with age and does not soak into the wood like a good resin or even a good oil paint.

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When I mention stringers, I mean the raised ribs the floor was screwed down to. I wasn't planning on using marine grade plywood, just a good acx with maybe 5ply. I understand now about the epoxy floor idea, it would adhere to thr paint and not the floor itself. Guess I will go with a vinyl floor covering. I appreciate all the ideas, always good to ask, saves time on doing it twice.

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39 minutes ago, leadcore troller said:

When I mention stringers, I mean the raised ribs the floor was screwed down to. I wasn't planning on using marine grade plywood, just a good acx with maybe 5ply. I understand now about the epoxy floor idea, it would adhere to thr paint and not the floor itself. Guess I will go with a vinyl floor covering. I appreciate all the ideas, always good to ask, saves time on doing it twice.

Good luck, enjoy and stay warm

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Did this same job to an old Bluefin I used to own. (1996 I think, boat was a 1985)

  • Remove the old plywood carefully, it will become your template to cut out the new pieces.
  • My plywood was riveted to the stringers, I had to buy rivets from Fastenal, there was nothing at the local hardware store that was even close.
  • I bought the vinyl floor covering and glue from Bass Pro, they had an exact match for my boat.
  • Take your time and use stainless hardware to upgrade anything that wasn't originally stainless, mine came out great, better than new and it was a great experience. I had zero problems with it and sold it in 2015 to buy a bigger boat.
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Did the transom on my sea nymph I was surprised how reasonable marine fir ply was. I was all set to use cheaper stuff but yes it was more expensive  but not by that much. Huge difference between the marine ply and the acx I put between the two layers. Marine ply  was mostly solid the other stuff had voids. I second the vinyl floor idea. My first pontoon was old old old but had a vinyl floor and the floor was great except  for where it was cut and let water through. I did epoxy the transom but the entire time I thought how long is this going to outlive me. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

itched  

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it depends on just how long you plan to keep the boat. usually an aluminum boat will last forever. i bought an old Cheokee 18' boat out of a field for 200.00. everything was rotted out including the tires. but the hull was as solid as a new boat.

 

if it was me and i planned on keeping it for many years i would check with places like lowes and online for the new non-wood materials available today. they may cost more than plywood but plywood can get soft spots down the road from being exposed to small standind water areas that isn't noticeable but keeps the floor damp. but once the non-wood flool is installed you will never have to replace the floor again. you will have total piece of mind as long as you use the boat. plus the resale value will be higher with a floor that wont rot.

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  • 1 month later...

I did my 16 smokercraft two years ago.   Carefully remove old as suggested.   I painted both sides, and got new vinyl.

I googled stainless rivets.....and got nice long ones.    I can probably find the name if needed.  Shoot me a pm.

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On 12/1/2023 at 8:26 AM, Traveling Circus said:

I've used MDO plywood (and sealed the edges with epoxy resin), with good results. This was covered with vinyl marine flooring.............

I never paid any attention to MDO but recently looked at its specs.  Seems like a better choice than ACX.  Unfortunately I can't seem to find any locally.  Lowes And Home Depot don't carry it anymore.  MDF is definitely no good and that is what they are pushing.  Where did you get yours from ?

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I found marine ply at matthews and field lumber in rochester on stonewood ave  585-663-0430. I don't think they sell much, they had to search for it. I think they didn't raise the price since they got it in .If I remember maybe 120.00 That was two years ago. The guy that brought it out and helped me load said it was way heavier than regular plywood. Other places said they could get it but had to order it in.

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22 minutes ago, Rod Snapper said:

Sorry to change this topic , I am looking to have my carpet replaced on my 2050 Crestliner Tournament. Does anyone know  a place from Oswego to Henderson that does this work? Thanks guys.

You should start your own thread 

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  • 5 weeks later...

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