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Fixing alum hull


Silver Fox

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I have a couple slits about 3" long from hitting something on the bottom of my tracker. Very thin, but I'm assuming my minor water problem is from these spots. I tried some stuff last year but it didn't hold up. Someone have a sure fire fix?

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TIG welding on the aluminum worked for me and another fellow. Thin aluminum is tough to weld. Another way is another piece of aluminum riveted over the crack with some sealing compound between the parts can work. It is called a "boiler patch". The crack also may be drilled with a small bit at the ends of the crack to keepp it from extending. Do not use pop rivets, solid rivets and set the rivets with a rivet set before peening them over. A double row of rivets around the edges will work . Use a small bolt and nut temporarily to pull the pieces of aluminum together in some of the holes. The drill for making the holes must match the rivet diameter so when the rivet is set, it does not spin in its hole.

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Depends on the amount of work it needs. Most wouldn't charge you more than $50-$75. If you want I can get you in touch with my buddy. He does metal fabricating for a living and is really reasonable.

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As an FYI I recently repaired an aluminum hull using GluvIt. The epoxy works fairly well but will not stand up long term and you are likely to have slow leaks going forward. Only way to fix permanently in my opinion is welding. The pounding out on the water will eventually open the leak more and more with epoxy. The epoxies just don't have the same physical properties under load that aluminum does so separation will occur eventually.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If your aluminium boat or aircraft was built with rivets and sheet metal then the best repair is with an aluminium sheet metal patch, rivets and good sealant. They have been building and repairing aircraft this way for 80 years and still are. A rivet gun, sets, and bucking bar are the only specialty tools needed. Maybe some clecos and pliers if it is complex. Stop drill the cracks, cut a patch that covers the damaged area and picks up a row of existing rivets on each side. Drill the heads off the existing rivets and pun.ch the tails out. Don't drill through the holes and elonggate them. Lay your patch in place. Pick up the existing rivets, you'll also add a row up each side of the crack. Mock it up, After all the holes are drilled, Schmootz it up with sealant and buck your rivets as original. Dip your rivets in sealant as well. Yah Yah I know JB weld is easier. If its not too structual go with what ever stops the leak. If it's gonna flex , get beat, or is structual then do a quality sheetmetal repair.

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Gluvit isnt really the product for that issue. It is meant more for seam and loose rivet leaks.

There is a product that you weld aluminum with just using a propane torch that has worked for me.

You may find it locally at Cabellas.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas- ... l+Products

An old marine mechanic that knows his s*** told me about this stuff.

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ok....heres a good one....don't laugh until you've tried it....go to loses look for marine gook....comes in a blue tube,works great on almost anything.....just let it dry,wears like steel !!!!

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