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Was thinking of trying slide divers this coming year.  Currently have two wire rods.  Saw a youtube video where a guy ties a length of braid to the wire (albright knot) and then runs the slide diver on the braid. I assume I would need to tie a leader to the braid as well.  Is there a better way to do it? Which brand slide diver would you recommend?  Any other tips, insight or advice would be appreciated.

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I have wire tied to spro swivel, tied to 15-25’ 30lb big game, tied to ball bearing swivel, tied to 4-5’ fluorocarbon leader.

Diver is installed to slide on big game. Clear bead installed on big game and rests against ball bearing swivel (on lure end) and prevents diver sliding last 5’ to fish.

I prefer how the slide diver release holds, and operates, on mono compared to braid.

The tiny Spro swivel at the end of the wire winds right through guides and levelwind.

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Ditto. We use this setup for spring kings in 30' of water, albeit with slightly more mono (50-60'). Once we get to the summer, we simply clip the mono down to 10' for the rest of the season so that all of the wire sits on the reel. This avoids kinks. Works mint.

Edited by Gator
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11 hours ago, John E Powell said:

I have wire tied to spro swivel, tied to 15-25’ 30lb big game, tied to ball bearing swivel, tied to 4-5’ fluorocarbon leader.

Diver is installed to slide on big game. Clear bead installed on big game and rests against ball bearing swivel (on lure end) and prevents diver sliding last 5’ to fish.

I prefer how the slide diver release holds, and operates, on mono compared to braid.

The tiny Spro swivel at the end of the wire winds right through guides and levelwind.

i do this exact same thing bead and all i just use 60-75 feet of mono i use my slide divers all spring and early summer untill i want to drop the dipseys below 50 feet than i switch to straight wire.  last year we found kings in may in 30 foot and the slide divers were the star.  they also are great for browns in tight 

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12 hours ago, John E Powell said:

I have wire tied to spro swivel, tied to 15-25’ 30lb big game, tied to ball bearing swivel, tied to 4-5’ fluorocarbon leader.

Diver is installed to slide on big game. Clear bead installed on big game and rests against ball bearing swivel (on lure end) and prevents diver sliding last 5’ to fish.

I prefer how the slide diver release holds, and operates, on mono compared to braid.

The tiny Spro swivel at the end of the wire winds right through guides and levelwind.

X2... excellent setup..

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13 hours ago, Gator said:

Ditto. We use this setup for spring kings in 30' of water, albeit with slightly more mono (50-60'). Once we get to the summer, we simply clip the mono down to 10' for the rest of the season so that all of the wire sits on the reel. This avoids kinks. Works mint.

 

Not sure I am following you. If you reduce the mono from 50-60' down to ten feet and that ten feet of mono is attached to the wire, how does the "wire sit on the reel"? What are you putting in the water?  What am I missing?

Edited by VanderLaan
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What Gator was describing was with a short 10-12ft piece of mono tied to the wire, when you reel everything in all the wire ends up on the reel with the mono in the eyelets on the rod. This eliminates the inevitable and dreaded curly Q’s in the wire 

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What knot do you use to attach wire to spro swivel.  Can you use it on a twilli tip rod?

I use a crimped sleeve with wire passed 3 times through crimp. I crimp in the middle so ends of the sleeve stay round. It will go through Twili, and traditional rod tips, guides, and levelwinds.

 

Steps:

 

Tie mono to Spro first. I use Palomar knot so it needs to be tied before you make the crimped connection. If you wait to tie the mono on until after crimping the sleeve, then you’ll need to use a mono knot that does not pass the swivel through the knot.

 

Find smallest sleeve that three (3) wires just pass through. Pass wire once through sleeve and then Spro. Pass wire backwards through sleeve second time. Pass wire forwards through sleeve third time and position end of wire at end of sleeve. Pull on portion of wire for second pass to minimize the size of the second loop.

 

When crimped, it’s the tiny second loop that prevents the wire from slipping inside the sleeve under heavy loads.

 

Carefully pull main wire to minimize size of first loop. Spro should have just enough room on wire loop to be able to move. Check for any final adjustments and use the correct matching crimping tool for the sleeve you chose, don’t use pliers. Crimp only in the center of the sleeve so ends of sleeve stay round. Round sleeve ends don’t pinch the wire and they go through guides easier than sleeves that are flattened along their entire length. Pull on mono to load test crimp for holding power.

 

 

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John gave you great specific advice on the crimping procedure. Twilli tips can be used but you may need to point the rod tip right at the crimp as it is coming in for smoothest entry. Most of my dipsy rods are roller rods which makes the transition easier. For regular dipsy setups I also use a crimp at the terminal end of wire with a strong solid ring ball bearing swivel attached but I encase the crimp connection in clear plastic glue (with glue gun). That way the crimp cannot move back and forth to ANY degree to sever the wire. Using the clear hot glue allows you to be able to view the inside of the connection to monitor it. I have never had one of them break at that point  in over 40 or more years.

Edited by Sk8man
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I think I get it.  Appreciate the advice.  Thanks guys. 

You can also use a short piece of shrink tube if you’re worried about it hanging up. Slide the shrink tube on the wire first and then slide it back down over the crimped sleeve up to the Spro and shrink it in place. It will smooth out any sharp points and steer the sleeve more smoothly through the guides.

 

If I retie a rig at the dock at the end of a day I’ll use the shrink wrap. If I have to retie out on the water I go without. It works both ways.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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