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Kicker brackets/power trim?s


chowder

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I'm leaning pretty hard towards putting a kicker on my I/O Starcraft Islander. Looks like the payback is 3-5 years on the gas (+better/easier speed control + backup security) depending on what I spend. I've talked w/ Hank and have been doing some internet prowling on numerous discussions about kicker installations and I still don't understand a couple things; 1. If I get a kicker w/ power trim can I go w/ some kind of really rugged one piece bracket w/ a "sink" in it to allow the motor to tip forward? It seems like this would be the sturdiest/ least problematic route to go but it's probably a bit tricky to determine the exact location for the plate on the transom (at this point I'm leaning towards the Merc 9.9 pro kicker w/ extra long shaft) 2. I haven't actually seen a bracket like this on the market, almost everything is adjustable and looks like junk except the OMC!- Does anybody have a setup like what I'm talking about or is there some hole in my concept that I can't see? 3. How much of a pain is it going to be to hook up the E-Zee steer rod ( I have an auto pilot) to the main drive? Thanx

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Chowder,

This bracket is the only one I know of that can accommodate your request. I have the OMC bracket on my boat with a 9.9 4-stroke, and it has held up well for 10 years now. if I had to do it over again I might look at a stationary bracket like this to allow the kicker to be closer to the center of the boat.

http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/4007 ... %20Bracket

Good luck with your endeavor. FYI - I have a Merc 8 HP kicker on my walleye boat. You almost can't hear the thing run!

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Adventure Marine makes a one piece kicker bracket that will allow you to tilt your power trim kicker all the way up.

You don't need a "sink",you just need enough distance from the face of the transom to the to where the motor is mounted on the bracket.This bracket easily allows you the distance.

I have one on my newly finished 23' with long shaft T8 Yamaha kicker with power trim and tilt,and love it.I steer it with an EZ-Steer rod ,and it works great.

This is one hell of a solid bracket,and after a full season of running the kicker on it,I would never go back to an adjustable bracket.I can easily tilt the engine all the way up without any interference,and with no problems at all with the control cables or wiring .

I ran a Garelick offshore bracket on my previous boat,and while it was good,it didn't come close to the strength and ease of use as the Adventure solid model.

No more screwing around with raising and lowering a bracket.Just push a button and the motor comes up.

It is also extremely strong.I bolted it to the transom with 7/16 stainless bolts with a aluminum backer plate inside,and I (240 lbs) stood on it and jumped up and down with no issues.Their literature lists its capacity around 150 lbs,but that is way way under rated.

Their website is below,they ship quick,and are easy to deal with.

https://www.adventuremarine.net/product ... &do=detail

Here's a few pictures of it on my boat.The last shows it tilted all the way up,when we were coming into the chute. Hope this helped.

IMG_1676.jpg

IMG_1581.jpg

IMG_1578.jpg

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100_2387.jpg

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WOW! I didn't see the first reply by sponge,sorry about that.That's the same bracket,I'm running.It's much cheaper to buy it from adventure direct.I think I paid $325.00 for it when I bought it a couple years ago.Looks like it went up a few bucks.

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Big Easy, do you find that this style bracket puts the kicker in a place that makes netting more difficult? I have seen a few different pictures of some custom brackets like this and they do appear to stick out the back a bit. Do you strap the kicker down in transit or trailering? Thanx! -Andy

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Andy,It hasn't been a problem at all netting fish off the back.The kicker never seems to get in the way to any serious degree.I can honestly say that in all the days we fished last season,netting fish never was an issue because of the kicker.

Now the netter; that's! a different story,sometimes he just did a crappy job,if you know what I mean.

Actually,the setback difference between this bracket,and an adjustable model aren't that much,It's only a few inches.

I never had to tie the motor down while under power,when running in.The Yamaha locks in place when it's raised all the way,and you have to release the locking mechanism to lower the motor when you want to troll.

I've powered in at planing speed plenty of times in some real snotty conditions(ask my buddies)and the kicker remained nice and stable.

In contrast,the kicker on my last boat would bounce around all over the place on that adjustable bracket.

I only trailer it about a quarter mile to the ramp,so that's not a problem,but I trailered it 400 miles up to Olcott from my home with it down and again,no issues.I didn't have to use any tie downs on it.

PS: Once you troll with a 4 stroke kicker you'll wonder how you did without one.I actually have to ask the guys in the boat if it's running,when I start it.It purrs like a kitten if I can use that expression.

The safety factor of another means of power also makes it a good choice.It will get you home if the main engine fails.

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That does look like a great bracket. But what about the trailering part? Do you have to make adjustments to your trailer in order to keep the right amount of tongue weight?

Or do you remove the outboard when you trailer your boat?

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The kicker and bracket together only adds 120 lbs or so to the rear,and my boat is glass and pretty heavy.(about 4500 lbs)so it doesn't affect the towing at all.

I don't remove it,it's bolted on.we ran kickers on smaller aluminum boats,and never removed the motors when trailering.

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Chowder The EZ-Steer is no problem just call them with the set up you have and they will take care of you. I had the Merc kicker on my last boat, I now have the Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust with remote throtle power trim and tilt. I had no problems with the Merc it was just didnt like to start when it was cold. The Merc was a 15hp and the Yamaha 9.9 has more guts then the Merc did.

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Mine is a long shaft (25" I think). There wasn't much choice of bracket position once the I/O was cleared, had adequate mounting surface area, and the prop was below the boat. I don't think I could have achieved all three with a short shaft.

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I did alot of research this fall on kicker brackets and mounting devices due to our unique transom. after a lot of stumbling around, I found a bunch of usefull info and pictures on the Sea Swirl Stripers owners Club site. A guy on great lakes angler turned me on to it. We were able to custom make a new one out of stainless that I know will be very stout. seeing other peoples ideas and boats really helped the process.

John H

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My Yamaha T8 is also a long shaft.I set the mount height so that the anti cavitation plate is just an inch or so below the hull bottom.

The kicker easily clears the 12 x 12 trim tabs.and trolls perfectly with no cavitation at higher speeds where it's located.

When it's tilted all the way up,it's completely out of the water,and there are no issues with rooster tails etc.None of it is in the water when I'm under power with the I/O.

I had a 9.9 kicker on my 22 Trophy mounted on a Garelick Offshore adjustable bracket,and even when it was raised all the way up,a few inches of the prop remained in the water,which did cause a little rooster tail and some drag while under power.

This fixed mount solved that problem.

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The EZ Steer arm that connects the motors has a habit of coming disconnected. Then you lean over the stern and drop part of it into the lake. Very expensive to replace the arm. I solved some of these problems by wrapping a bungy cord between the standing brackets which keeps the motors turned togrther better.

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