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Copper Setup Questions


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What's up guys. Iv'e been fishing lake O for a while now with some pretty decent success. I have a 206 sea pro walk around and I run two riggers off the back, divers off the side, and a lead down the chute. Iv'e heard that a copper rig can really add a lot to your presentation. If I bought a copper rod/reel, what size should I get? I know they come in various lengths/sizes etc. I have heard guys say good things about running it straight out the back as well as off a planer, so I'm not sure where I would put it. Also, I was wondering if I should replace my leadcore with the copper, or have both. I asked someone and they pretty much told me to just ditch the lead. So if I go with copper, what should I get, and how should I run it. If you could give any tips or advice it would be much appreciated! 

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all I have is a 300 ft copper myself going to look at a 400 and 500 also for varying depths and I also have a 10 color leadcore I can use is certain situations so I would keep both

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i ran the same setup last year,with copper down the chute.it produced quite well.problem with it down the chute is you should bring it in when you get a fish on one of the other rods or you are asking for a mess,so,it can be a pain,especially if you only fish with two people on the boat.im going to run it off otter boats this year.300 is a good starting point.like what was said above i am going to add a 400 and 500 this year.as far as buying one,atomic sells them as a package deal,as does hills valley,which is a sponsor on this site.if you fish around pulaski,the local tackle shops also sell them all set up.oh,and by the way,after pulling in a few on copper,now when it fires,i usually find myself in the cabin or piloting the boat and let someone else grab it!!!!!!you will see why.haha

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I recently decided to take one of my saltwater combos a copper setup with a Penn squall60Ld. The rod it came with is a 5'6 roller rod which I also was think might be good down the chute but worried about a fish really twisting up all the lines. Would that rod work or would it be better in a tite-lok on the side any opinions would help. I also have two lead core setups which I believe because I'm using cheap ass yellow birds for the time being is causing me to do a whole lot of reeling which makes me not want to ever utilize these set ups

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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If you are going to keep running it down the chute, get a 300 and a handful of Dive Bombs. Each ounce adds about 8 feet of depth and increases the down angle at the back of the boat. I run 2, 4 and 6 ounce Bombs and don't worry about running long coppers much any more.

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Jekyll,

Are you hooking the bomb to  the leader or the backing?  If the backing, how much line are you letting out after the dive bomb to achieve that much more depth?

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Jekyll,

Are you hooking the bomb to  the leader or the backing?  If the backing, how much line are you letting out after the dive bomb to achieve that much more depth?

I let out about 2/3 of the copper and attach the DB to the copper. I let out additional backing once the entire copper is in the water. Make sure you install and remove them over the boat or you may donate one to Neptune. I usually run 10, 1-way passes of the reel after the end of the copper goes in the water (Takota 800). Try and adjust as necessary. I do the same with lead core.You can cover a lot of depths with fewer cores. I use 2, 6 and 10 colors and adjust in between, and deeper, with DBs.

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I would be worried about creating a weak spot in the copper and the leadcore??  Also, doesn't attaching the weight to the leadcore kill the flowing whiplike action as it travels through the water?

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I would be worried about creating a weak spot in the copper and the leadcore??  Also, doesn't attaching the weight to the leadcore kill the flowing whiplike action as it travels through the water?

No and no.

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In  my humble opinion adding lead to any copper section kills the signature that copper creates. Lead can create a cluster f###k with copper sections have seen it happen more than once . We run sections 60 ft through to 600 ft . If you want lead put it on wire or braid don't screw up the copper signature that's why it works so well. Not cheap to run a lot of sections but that's the name of the game . My two cents and that's not worth much now days.

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If you are fishing a copper down the chute with a fairly experienced crew, and you hook up on another rod, have someone attach a big inline to the chute rod to get it out of the way until you get the fish in.  It's a LOT easier than burning in a long copper all the time.

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Short copper 150 or 200 stacked on an out down cable. Backing in a scotty pinch stacker. Never in the way and the added lead is just the ball you already are using on a downrigger..comes off all by itself too!. Needs nothing attached to the copper to get it out of the way. Drop the rigger deep when fish are on another line provided there is enough FOW. ..carries the copper down out of the way still running (maybe to reveal a surprise hit) until the fish is in the boat. Pop the stacked copper if its on the common down rigger that the fish took the ball bait and let it ride up through the water column for a second tailgunner hit...ya gotta bring the ball up to reset anyway and remove the stacker clip...If not on the common rigger the fish took, then just bring it back up to original depth and bend the rods over again. Short coppers are great and more flexible than the long ones in ways of deep running long Lines. Lighter copper too...30 lb or 32 lb instead of the winch cable 45 or 60! Kids and the ladies even like it!

Only if ya don't mind stacking...but still way less trouble than hauling it in with break neck speed or attached accessories to maybe lose to Neptune's treasures. Nothing extra...just a scotty clamp on pinch pad stacker.

Long coppers seldom get used until mid to late season but short ones can reach any depth any time and find more water time than any other coppers in my arsenal.

I have 2 brand new diawa seagate 60s ready to load long coppers on but they are still in the box till lady O sets up deep thermals. No hurry..but those shorties are running everywhere right now!

cent frum my notso smart fone

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So to look at a combo setup which size reel are we talking the 300 class or 400 class reels for a 400 copper. Also what weight copper and what brand of copper is everyone using?

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A 400 copper will need a large reel 800 Takota will hold a #45 lb 400 section and about 200 yds of #50 power pro backing. I am with skipper19 on the short coppers his post hit the nail on the head lots more fun . The long heavy #45 section are a great deep water tool but a handful to deal with for sure.

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So to look at a combo setup which size reel are we talking the 300 class or 400 class reels for a 400 copper. Also what weight copper and what brand of copper is everyone using?

Daiwa Seagate 60 will fit a 400' copper with 250yds of backing.  You can get a complete setup through Atommik.  The Seagate is a 6 to 1 gear ratio real and makes bringing in copper so much easier.  Same drags as the Saltist too!

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Copper and leadcore are both greAt for your arsenal. Never get rid of your core. I love both. I do a lot finger lakes fidhing and it is common practice to run 3 5 10 color off boards on one side and 150 200 300 copper off other side on boards. They each give lure a little differAnt action. Some days core gets all hits. Some days copper does. Using same lures

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So to look at a combo setup which size reel are we talking the 300 class or 400 class reels for a 400 copper. Also what weight copper and what brand of copper is everyone using?

 

Blood Run Tackle, LOU site sponsor as well.   Also selling pre-loaded Tekota's (and other reels) on their website at

 

http://bloodruntackle.gostorego.com/salmon-fishing-line-downrigger-leader-wire-copper-trolling/pre-spooled-shimano-tekota-800-copper-fishing-wire-line.html

Edited by profishient1
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