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Reel Doc

Downrigger Wire Repair

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About 2 feet from the weight attachment end of one of my downriggers the wire has started to fray.  Is there a best way to cut the end off and securely reconnect to the metal loop at the end?

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The "usual" spot for fraying is near the actual terminal connection so your spot brings up "wire integrity" as a possible issue.. You may want to carefully check over the rest of the wire to determine its integrity. If other questionable spots detected - replace the wire. If not, and you re-terminate I'd snip off a few feet of the wire before doing it and carefully crimp a crimp sleeve to whatever type of connector you are using making sure it doesn't have "wiggle room" in the sleve itself. Make sure the crimp sleve is tight enough diameter to fit the doubled strands of wire without excess back and forth movement of the wire. Crimp it in two places (e.g. from both sides of the sleve). One of my downriggers has had the same connection for 30 years, the other I put new wire on about 15 yrears ago and that connection is still good.....so the system works. You didn't mention the type of downrigger connectoryou presently have but follow the instructions for it and crimp as mentioned and you shouldn't have any  problems.

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22 minutes ago, sherman brown said:

get a tru trac klincher terminator off ebay for about 6.00 then use a good set og dikes (diagonal pliers) to cut off the bad cable and install the terminator to your cable.

 X2. No chance of a bad crimp

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21 hours ago, thumbburn said:

I’m cheap....... cut the fray off...... then tie a wire line knot on a big swivel....


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I'm gonna try that. I assume it's the same wire knot used on wire rods?

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get a tru trac klincher terminator off ebay for about 6.00 then use a good set og dikes (diagonal pliers) to cut off the bad cable and install the terminator to your cable.

Absolutely!

Sent from my XT1585 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Part of the beauty of this site is getting many opinions!!

So we have 2 trains of thought here with a $6 cost difference.  Prior to 2000 when repairing a dog's torn ACL I had to rely on tied braided nylon suture to act as the new ACL.  Now we have a crimping tool to secure an inert monofilament cord.  There would be occasional knot failure with the old method but only an improper crimp can cause the new to fail. I'm thinking $6 now may save the cost of a cannonball later......

 

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Part of the beauty of this site is getting many opinions!!
So we have 2 trains of thought here with a $6 cost difference.  Prior to 2000 when repairing a dog's torn ACL I had to rely on tied braided nylon suture to act as the new ACL.  Now we have a crimping tool to secure an inert monofilament cord.  There would be occasional knot failure with the old method but only an improper crimp can cause the new to fail. I'm thinking $6 now may save the cost of a cannonball later......
 
I'm thinking your mind is in the rite place ;)

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I slide a crimp and a section of heat shrink up the rigger cable.

Tie wire knot to large swivel w/overhand not above swivel.

Crimp tag of overhand knot to rigger cable. Cut remainder of tag. Heat shrink the knot & the crimp.

Have done this the last few seasons. No issues at all. 

 

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Buy a cannon downrigger cable terminator repair kit. Ive been playing this game for 25yrs and I can not

remember ever losing a cannon ball.Ive snagged bottom had to turn the boat around many times,I even snagged the wreck at Hughes and got my stuff back.  It will probably make a ploop sound as the ball breaks off and hits the water.  Kits are around $25 bucks. I think there are 4 or 5 cable terminators in the kit. Probably less than the price of a cannonball.

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42 minutes ago, Fishstix said:

Buy a cannon downrigger cable terminator repair kit. Ive been playing this game for 25yrs and I can not

remember ever losing a cannon ball.Ive snagged bottom had to turn the boat around many times,I even snagged the wreck at Hughes and got my stuff back.  It will probably make a ploop sound as the ball breaks off and hits the water.  Kits are around $25 bucks. I think there are 4 or 5 cable terminators in the kit. Probably less than the price of a cannonball.

X 2 

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Finally got around to bringing the downrigger in the house and cut back the frayed wire.  As you can see I decided on the Klincher.  It was a piece of cake and seems very secure.  I appreciate the info you all passed on.  :yes:

15496752686104988603265337686742.jpg

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Whatever you do, do make sure to inspect your cable and to fix it the right way. My failure to do so, cost me a $300 fish hawk probe and a 14 pound torpedo. They were hanging on the cable next to the boat and I saw the cable break and that 340 dollars go down before my eyes and not being able to grab it. It made me feel very stupid and thoroughly spoiled my day on the water.

Edited by rolmops
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just like the line on your reels the last few feet take the abuse. Strip a couple feet and redo the terminal connection atleast once a year. If you don't you'll pay!!! Klincher is the way  to go!!

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After a few years of use I like to reverse the cable. Take it all off cut the bad section where the clip was and attach that end to the spool. Now your using cable that was probably never used for your terminal end. This is especially good if you have coated cable for your probed ,you can get a few more years out of the cable.

good luck

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